西アフリカからヨーロッパへの密入国の旅
Empieza el ‘camino’
Una de las grandes rutas migratorias nace en el corazón de África Occidental, sortea el desierto del Sáhara y desemboca en el Mediterráneo
Dos periodistas recorren la travesía a través de Malí y Níger para contarlo en primera persona
FOTOGALERÍA Con los protagonistas de la travesía
FOTOGALERÍA Por Malí y Níger
GRÁFICO Rutas de emigración de África Central
José Naranjo Niamey 17 ENE 2014 - 09:53 CET
Start the 'road'
One of the main migratory routes is born in the heart of West Africa, the Sahara Desert Lots and flows into the Mediterranean
Two journalists travel the journey through Mali and Niger to tell first-person
PHOTOGALLERY With the protagonists crossing
PHOTOGALLERY For Mali and Niger
GRAPHIC migration routes of Central Africa
José Naranjo Niamey 17 ENE 2014 - 9:53 CET
Station buses Binke Transport Company in Faladié (Bamako ) . It's noon and the heat on the street were tightened. There are still four hours to leave the bus to Sevaré in central Mali , but Sidi Abdel Karim Coulibaly Djeri and of 24 and 21, and sitting on a bench waiting sheltered from the harsh sun. Just speak French , come from the neighborhood and take the journey Hamdallaye engraved on the face. Adventure call here . " Where are you going? " , You ask them . " In Algeria," respond with ingenuity . Little differentiates them from other travelers, just that look, that feeling of being lost transmitting , not really knowing what awaits beyond.
In Bamako , Mali's capital , there is a great paradox . There are thousands of candidates to begin the journey to Europe, are on any street, in any garage , across the crossroads, but at the same time , are invisible. " If you ask not often openly acknowledge , but many have that dream in the head ," said Ousmane Diarra, 42, president of the Association of Malians Expelled (AME ) sitting in his office Djelibougou neighborhood . The attraction is powerful, but the paths that reach the sea traverse a giant arena increasingly ominous , more difficult to penetrate , more fraught with danger. And yet, many try . Again and again .
Samakoun Dembele is a veteran of Adventure . This young Kita ( Kayes region ) which will soon celebrate 33 years has crossed the Sahara on eight occasions. He now works as a guard in Bamako , which earns about 50 USD per month to give bad life . He knows the Tunisia-Libyan prisons and detention centers in Spain and Italy , so far arrived by boat twice. " On the way , everyone robs you , pins , police officers, prison guards , bandits raiding trucks in collusion with the drivers . Nobody cares about what happens to you , "he says . " For now I'm here, but you never know ," he adds , " perhaps try again ."
Sidi Abdel Karim and do know . They leave. Accommodated in two seats, quiet , thoughtful , begin the journey . Beside her, Lamine , a Guinean healer who wears suit and tie and with ensuring that your home cure prostate pills in 24 hours, look with indifference. Like the rest of the passage. The bus departs two hours late and 60 kilometers from Bamako , first setback . A wheel bursts and expect to bring the parts from the capital. We lose four hours . Soon after, passed Segou , second breakdown. Now is the steering shaft and repair , this time it is not so simple. Sidi Abdel Karim and do not flinch . So traveling through Africa , you never know what will happen right around the corner. As the other passengers, the eternal wandering unnoticed in Africa , off the bus and sit around waiting sitting on stones .
Along the way , everyone robs you . Pins , police , prison guards , bandits ... "
The trip to Europe is multiform , multifaceted , has a thousand faces, ways and trails. From the home towns scattered all West African countries , young people leave impelled by poverty and lack of prospects , but not many concrete ideas. On board buses, vans and trucks are coming to the big cities, crossroads where they await the next stage . They sporadic to get by , to pay for the trip work , food and a place to sleep . When you manage to collect enough restarted Adventure. And so for months or years, they are jumping from country to country. But as they get closer to Niger , Algeria , Morocco or Libya difficulties are increasing . Impossible to know how many have died of hunger and thirst, deceived in this wilderness.
From Sevaré begin to see the remains of the recent war that has lived Mali. A handful of houses burned and destroyed by bombing vehicles welcome us in Konna . On the bus travel more than 80 people , well above its capacity. It's like a can of sardines , all spaces , stairs and hallway, van full of people making the journey even standing . After spending Douentza , new fault. Young Tanal Ag Abdoulaye , a Tuareg singer picks up his guitar and entertains the wait between glasses of tea and impromptu chats in the shade of the trees. After the appropriate relief , we are surprised the night on the road. Gao impossible to reach , for safety reasons the road is closed. Toca Gossi sleep on mats rented at 20 cents a night and wrapped only in a blanket of stars . It's cold. Each seeks his corner.
The next day , as in Gao , the pins make an appearance soon . Boubacar approaches the bus and challenges young people coming down . "Are you going to Algeria? I can help you. " We decided to follow him and leads us to a street of Quatrieme from where the vehicles to the neighboring country . There, Karim a grumpy black Tuareg , gives prices . 50 euros if you go by cab, twenty in tow, ascended on sacks of flour. During the war , the route of Kidal was closed a few months. But now becomes active , the flow of trucks and 4x4 is constant , everyday . And adventurers know .
The price to go to Gao
Algeria is 50 euros if you go on
cab and trailer 25
The other option is to go to Niger. The road to Niamey has an immaculate condition and , over the border of Yassane , no obstacles to the Niger capital. There, close to the bus company Sonef find dozens of young people who come from all over West Africa , Gambia , Liberia , Cameroon, Nigeria ... If in Bamako were only shadows , just a statement of intent , his presence is now evident . Abraham Mare left Banjul ( Gambia) a year and a half ago. After visiting Senegal , Mali and Burkina Faso has been the ultimate destination this dusty streets of Niamey. " I have no money, what little I had it off the police , so now I have even the possibility to decide ," he said . In Guinea Bissau , Nando Caba is in a similar situation. He came through Agadez to Libya and was about to get a place on a boat to Italy, but was arrested, detained and sent back to Niger . Now working as a painter for six euros a day and sleeping on cardboard in a container .
Right next door is the Cordon Bleu restaurant , run by Nataly Niambele . Although young travelers call Mom. "More than a year ago and opened this small restaurant after a while , I began to see the guys who came on buses and slept lying outside the door . I felt bad , so I decided to invite them to eat. " Since then, Nataly you know that one of the pots of rice with meat or chicken with onion prepared each day is reserved for migrants. " I do so with faith that God will help me , I can not look away . They are good kids , I even take care of the restaurant at night , "he says .
Fanko Bertrand was one of them . Cameroon 30 years left his native Douala in 2008 with the intention of opening a business. He toured Nigeria, Benin , Togo , Burkina Faso , Mali , Senegal, Mali and back finally Niger. In Dakar mounted a small cottage industry of fish meal for livestock, but failed , in Bamako selling cleaning products for cars and also did very well . "I told myself and why not try to go to Algeria or Europe like the others? Maybe we finally get there , " she recalls. Once in Niamey , exhausted , penniless , went to the cathedral for shelter . And he found the father Mauro .
Armanino missionary : "We live in a system that suggests luxury and we use violence that keeps away the colonized "
Mauro Armanino , Genoese , 61 missionary , thin, tall , white beard and long hair , seven years in Africa. "I remember perfectly Bertrand ," says the priest , " I found him sleeping on a bench in the yard and told him not to go to Algeria , I convinced her to stay . These guys do not exist for anyone. We live in an economic system that requires permanent war, a system mounted by the colonizer insinuating luxury, promises and then not keep the promise and uses violence to keep the colonized far , "said the priest, who for three years helps young people in transit, listen, the heading for the foyer , (foster self-managed host on which are grouped by nationality ) , try helping them out , find them some work for them to come back, to give up his idea. " They're so frustrated ... In Europe they are irregular and are bad, but they have come , those here were never anywhere " .
In the end, Bertrand decided to stay in Niamey , where he launched a new business. " When I was in Bamako had a friend named Congolese Mupao . Suddenly , he began to dress well and he looked happy. He said he was engaged to fix the nails women. So I thought I could also do it. I went to a hair salon in Niamey and paid 30 euros to teach me . Now go to the market and offer my services , I make at home or in the street , "he says . Teach a laminated photocopy of nail polish of all colors and all shapes. It is your business card. For each hand wins three euros. The business , this time , not doing wrong and is now undergoing expansion . "Yesterday I learned to fix eyelashes ," he adds .
Buropa area , next to a huge garbage dump burning in dozens of bonfires where children seek what advantage , is the foyer of Malians . Ibrahim Ouattara, Sikasso , and the very young Demba Tandja of Yelimané ( Kayes ) , spend the afternoon sitting in a street café bar . Boubacar Traoré are encouraged to say something. "In Bamako are the best things here , is there any possibility to work and it's hard to see people sleeping on the street ," he says with a touch of nostalgia, " but to follow the path we have to go through Niamey ." This Malian frank smile is right now living in one of the poorest countries on Earth .
Since the death in October of a hundred migrants near the border with Algeria , the authorities have decided to implement tough
An image that may well reflect the reality of Niger 's 16 million people sitting on hundreds of thousands of tons of rich uranium used to fuel nuclear power plants in France. And yet , the vast majority of these people have nothing to eat . Haunted by recurring famines , diseases like diarrhea and malaria causing thousands of deaths each year, mostly among children, and the implacable desertification , most of the population lives in the southern part of the country with one of the birth rates highest in the world , 7.2 children per woman. "That's one of the problems , the adventurers are not much worse than many of the Niger ," said the father Mauro .
And , above , are now blocked . Since the death last October of a hundred migrants near the border with Algeria after his truck suffered a breakdown, the authorities have decided to implement strong hand in controlling flows . The deceased were seasonal southern Niger who went to work in agriculture , which is why more than half of those killed were women and children. But whatever. The journey is just as risky for everyone. Police have closed 70 homes patera in Agadez is expelling south to Niamey , dozens of young people every day.
"Now they're stuck here , neither forward nor back ," said Father Anselmo Mahwera , Tanzanian priest who fled neighboring Gao war and two years ago is based in the capital of Niger. But all the actors in this ongoing movement in Africa are convinced that blocking will not last long , too many people making money at the expense of migrants , police , pins , drivers, and for this immense river tributaries thousand stops. It will be more difficult, more dangerous, more hidden , more daring . It is already happening . But just as unstoppable.
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