全世界に進出する衣料品製造販売連鎖店のZaraなどのInditexの社長のアマンシオ·オルテガ(Amancio Ortega)の成功の秘密
REPORTAJE
El éxito del sastre global
Inditex ha triplicado su valor con la crisis y ha colocado a su creador, Amancio Ortega, entre los tres más ricos del mundo. La empresa nada a contracorriente batiendo récords
Luis Gómez 12 AGO 2012 - 00:00 CET
FEATURE
The success of the overall tailor
Inditex has tripled in value over the crisis and has placed its creator, Amancio Ortega, the three richest in the world. The company swims against breaking records
Luis Gomez 12 AGO 2012 - 00:00 CET
Almost a year and a half ago, the Galician press realized Amancio Ortega's visit to a shopping center on the outskirts of A Coruña, known as Marineda City. They walked for a few hours Inditex Group stores (you could also say "its stores") quite naturally, so much so that at noon to take advantage in a nearby bar vegetable sandwich, a beer and a coffee with saccharin, a lunch that seemed austere to the chroniclers, being at that time who was the eighth richest man in the world. What no one knew then (April 2011) is Amancio Ortega's visit had another purpose. The boss wanted to see it live and direct how it was and how it worked the new store concept was preparing Zara and a year later with fanfare inaugurated on 5th Avenue in New York.
That course of action is in the house, very Ortega and in the background, who works with very Ortega. In Arteixo headquarters naturalness prevails and discretion, but also the opacity. Not that Inditex keep many secrets at this stage of life in the case of one of the companies studied in the great schools of business, but which retains the ability to disclose exactly what he wants to diffuse and, in many cases, in the tone is best for you. For a company that does not use advertising (certainly not pay for it), but that is on the lips of half the world, is a priceless success. That Marineda City store was, in short, a laboratory experiment. No one knew until know agreed. No one noticed that this shop was different. Why Marineda City in A Coruña and not any other? For a very simple reason: because it was the closest to the head office, which is on the road between Arteixo and A Coruña, home Amancio Ortega, Pablo Isla and company executives. Policy costs call that one of the keys to success of Inditex unstoppable.
A year and a half later, on April 15, 2012, Inditex invited a group of journalists from around the world to open its new Zara store in New York at 666 5th Avenue. Journalists realized a new concept of establishment almost unanimously rated as a "boutique shops". With better or worse literature were explaining the virtues of a neutral scenario with gray, white, and contained spaces, light and shadow created to impress prospective customers and make them buy. Another fact not lost: Inditex had acquired local 247 million euros. According to analysts, Inditex and seemed to break his habit of renting premises. A whim of multinational or a strategic move? "The purchase of the best places in the best streets of the coolest cities means acquiring an asset that appreciates by 30% if, at the moment, in many local housing market fell by 30%," says an expert.
The global launch was not present Amancio Ortega, as it is usual. At that time was the fifth richest man in the world. This week, the financial news agency Bloomberg Ortega proclaimed as one of the three richest in the world with 37,500 million. Beat to a financial wizard (Warren Buffet) and another shopkeeper like him, Ingvar Kampad (owner of IKEA). It is possible that Bill Gates and Carlos Slim, the first two in the list, you remain still some way off, but in the anecdote that may be this game figures to the millionaires of the moment, the fact is that the figure of Amancio Ortega illustrates a phenomenon not just surprised, to contradict result analysts and inimitable 37 years after the birth of the company.
The company is going to produce
in Turkey and Portugal because they are much cheaper countries
Many authors have tried to break up the keys to success of Inditex (and Zara, its flagship brand, responsible for almost 70% of group turnover), a multinational like nobody has sailed through the economic storm world, contrary to what has happened to their competitors. Being a Spain-based company does not appear that the national situation had affected: data from the first quarter of 2012 indicate a 30% profit over the same period in 2011. The defeat of the Spanish stock market, where shares are traded Inditex, has not affected the company, which has tripled its market value during the years of the crisis and, now, Spanish is the most valuable company, overtaking Telefonica and the two largest banks, Santander and BBVA. To cap the number of stores is growing and seems to follow a perfect average: 1,000 stores every four years, with or without crisis. Thus, in 2006 in Valencia opened 3000th, the 4000 was opened in Tokyo in 2008, Rome toasted the number 5,000 in 2010. And the store will inexorably 6,000 later this year. Where? There are arguments that point to China, if only for calculating probabilities.
China. It is true that Inditex has opened 300 stores in China in recent years. It is true that manufactured in China, but against what many believe (that China is the lifeline in times of crisis), there is evidence to support the conclusion that Inditex is leaving the Asian country (and not that cheap manufacturing there) and opting for a return to closer places like Africa, Turkey and even Portugal. That is, when some still going, Inditex is already returning. And that's one of the real keys to success: the speed of response.
"Inditex is the strongest model of all that exist," explains Professor José Luis Nueno, IESE, author of one of the case studies for business schools Inditex. Hers is titled Zara: Fast Fashion, while preparing another study to be a projection of what can be Inditex in five years and invoice euro 30,000 million (something like Zara 30,000). "Of course, everyone has tried to imitate his model, some go to 10% or 20%, but no one gets full. No one is able to do what they do and how they do. "
Make nice clothes at good prices for middle class converged. So define fashion experts that makes the group, which is the same as saying they wear to middle and lower classes in some places and high class others. But the global fashion concept does not only Inditex. They do other brands. Mention the ability of its designers to capture trends for inspiration in everything you see on any street in any big city is no longer an exclusive merit their brands Zara and traveling companions. Browse the market, copy what's on the catwalks, make other multinationals. For a long time the legend has persisted that the credit was in the design departments of the company, (all but closed to the press visit), which employed hundreds of young and unknown talent trained in the house. It has been the case that other firms have signed some of these specialists to hit book. As if acquiring those talents imported some of the secrets of Inditex. He did Sfera, a brand of the English Court, he joined a handful of designers Zara. It has done Pepe Jeans. What do other companies. Fichan as who hires a sports star. But the distance remains.
There remains an urban legend that says if a city announce rain, umbrella will Zara stores. This metaphor also underlines the true essence of the business. Inditex creates buzz, but mostly it's an industry effectively. There is a very quick responsiveness between decision making and implementation. And this is the result of a highly advanced manufacturing process, logistics impressive with high technological level. "In it are some cracks," says Nueno. Known are the spectacular figures from a company that makes 840 million garments every year, and a total of about 40,000 references. No one reaches a similar figure. Fabrica while winter clothes and summer clothes for women and men, for teens and adults, for children, Chinese and American, to places where more frequently replenished sizes S and M or places where the most commonly renewed are L and XL. Inditex is the great global shop. But all this is well known. What is truly amazing is how still being able to adapt quickly to circumstances. What if a T does not sell? I know at the time. The withdrawn. The recycle. Nothing is neglected in Inditex. "He gets a letter, it changes color and returns to stores," says a company executive. What happens when someone makes a complaint copy? "The garment is removed at the time, no discussion. There are another 40,000 to choose ". The important thing is not to have warehouse. Very simple: everything we sell is made.
"If a shirt is not sold it changes color, gets a letter and returns to stores," says an executive
It is a Spanish company. How a company based in Spain, where its logistics (eight platform and a ninth under construction in Guadalajara), in addition to 1,900 shops, this level of profit achieved in recent years in a country where consumption has fallen and appears on the verge bailout? Again, mirroring the Inditex capacity explains the apparent miracle. Hardly Inditex opens stores in Spain, virtually opens out. Even closed. It made a great stir in Bilbao by the closure of a Zara store on Gran Vía, where he had two. However, the figure is irrelevant in relative and absolute terms. And yet, the company has maintained its turnover, with restrained increase of 1% in 2011, a year in which all competitors have fallen. Another feature of the group: unbranded Spain. In many countries, customers do not associate Zara to Spain.
Inditex does not sell the same clothes in the world. In USA presented garments perfectly suited to American
So when in 2009 announced that Inditex analysts would experience their first problems in a world in crisis, the company began to make decisions with the caution that characterizes him. It was still. A senior employee of the firm points out some steps: "There was a time when it launched more basic items than before and began to be emphasized customer service in stores. Before employees were limited to folding laundry. Now should serve the customer. No one should go without buying something. " The basics have an advantage, they are cheaper. Inditex was lowering prices without saying.
The company continued its way through the bubble burst and the market convulsions. Continued opening stores, but possibly changing the map of the openings, opting to do so in emerging countries. It is an advantage to act in a global world.
And as if nothing affected, presents a new concept store in New York Zara, which means multiply these changes in hundreds of stores. He also announced new investments. What may be an advantage of the transformation of the stores Zara? A senior employee says two advantages: "Oddly enough, it is hanging more clothes if that if exposed in a table". Two, a showcase minimalist. What is a minimalist window with almost no content, as well as an aesthetic? A showcase cheaper. "Some merchandisers are concerned," said one of them: "If this is a general trend, merchandisers may need less in the future."
Amid the crisis, Amancio Ortega announced he was leaving the control of the company to Pablo Isla, who happened to become president of Inditex. He announced his successor and cleared all doubts about the role he would play his daughter Marta, separating the ownership of management. There analysts who understood that it was the right time to announce a series, but the decision was made. Do not know much about Paul Island, a very of the house, a low-profile executive, such as Amancio Ortega. Island does not give interviews. Just can be heard once a year, when addressing shareholders at the general meeting. Some experts believe that Paul Island is behind Inditex entry in the sale on the Web and the acquisition of property and the 5th Avenue in New York.
Decisions are made. And running quickly. For example, Massimo Dutti is in the throes of entry into the United States. There will be presented with clothes really for Americans to compete with big brands making their. Those clothes will not be in Spain, which breaks the (wrong) idea that the same Inditex sells worldwide. In parallel, other orders for Massimo Dutti staff headquarters in Barcelona to be executed in early September: red predominates in the windows and everything must be chewed: "If it's hot there should be a shelter in the window, as before, "says an employee. "There is that risk." Why red? "These are trends. It announces the cover of Vogue ", explained in Dutti.
Inditex will continue to grow. The next data will arrive in September. There seems no doubt that will continue to be good. And Amancio Ortega will remain richer, now that is apparently removed, while still appearing headquarters in Arteixo, continue spending hours in the area of design of Zara woman, her favorite spot in the company, or continue having lunch in the dining room employees. The third richest man in the world will not give an interview, without explaining how he conceived a model that, by dint of being studied, remains inimitable 37 years later.
Social investments, innovation to classical
Xosé Manuel Pereira
The next infant schools in Galicia the pay out of pocket Amancio Ortega, or rather, the foundation that bears his name presides. Nine centers that will cost 11 million euros and increase public offering for children under three years by 5%. It is quite common that a private entity COAST donates equipment after the administration. Rather the reverse is often the case, but Ortega has always done things his way.
When it was Zara Zara, Amancio Ortega seemed so withdrawn as an entrepreneur Howard Hughes at the end of his life, but any photographer could have portrayed in the places he frequented, as Atlantic Financial Club or in your locality the Riazor stadium. It was the media that his desire for privacy respected (though hardly invested in advertising). Now that is the third fortune the world is completely accessible to anyone with camera or not, to attend an event in equestrian Casas Novas Equestrian Centre.
Amancio Ortega Foundation has undergone a similar transformation. Born in 2001 in an almost anonymous, but with a budget not shy of 60 million euros. His first project, Ponte dos Brozos, tried to introduce new technologies in the early stages of public education, from infant school, "as an educational and pedagogical modernization tool, not as a discipline," the then director Foundation, Felipe Gómez-Pallete. Two years later, in college Ponte dos Brozos Arteixo, in the classrooms of 1st and 2nd grade had computers in the 3rd and 4th was used "transition technology"-a stand-alone keyboard with memory and a small screen, called alphasmart-, and students in grades 5 and 6 used laptops and an interactive whiteboard. We are talking about 2004.
Since those days in investigating educational innovation in experimental classrooms are called P4, built in Arteixo craft stores like-or even after he made a donation of six million people affected by the Prestige oil spill had not easy to trace the final recipients, Amancio Ortega Foundation has maintained a low profile. Your website borders on Zen. Ponte dos Brozos That project has become PdB Classroom, a platform for teachers interested in educational innovation, which accompany a couple of more educational programs and a training project in Tanzania. But now, with the image of the vice president of the foundation, Ortega's wife, Flora Pérez, the holders are occupying welfare projects. The Man Project headquarters in Santiago, which involved an investment of over 7 million, or new care residence Rubinos Father of A Coruña, which costs 25 million.
At the end prevails classic.
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