スペインの衣料品 製造 販売 連鎖店のAmancio Ortega氏の創設したInditexのZara,Mangoなどの世界
REPORTAJE
Galaxia Inditex
De un taller creado hace medio siglo a un emporio con 120.00 empleados. Con la marca Zara a la cabeza, la compañía que ha hecho de Amancio Ortega el tercer hombre más rico del mundo, se expande con su fórmula imbatible: dar al cliente lo que quiere
Charo Nogueira 7 ABR 2013 - 00:00 CET
FEATURE
Galaxy Inditex
In a workshop created half a century ago to an emporium with 120.00 employed. Zara With the lead, the company that has made Amancio Ortega's third richest man in the world, is expanding its unbeatable formula: give customers what they want
Charo Nogueira 7 ABR 2013 - 00:00 CET
"As a Hawaii but tropical"
- "And the Japanese flower?".
The four women do not talk about botany, but fashionable. On the table are fabrics, sketches and sales summary report. Best grandecitas flowers, but without going over. In five weeks, two to make the fabric and three for making garments-this cotton motifs that evoke margaritas will shape models thousands of stores spread over 86 countries. This is Zara, the fast fashion mother, the heart of a giant called Inditex.
The center of the heart, until now limits to the media, is the design department in the town of Arteixo Coruña, where sits the headquarters of the group. A huge ship with 300 souls, especially young people, 30 nationalities, computers, racks delineating work areas, rolls of fabric and sewing machines for prototyping. In the center, the spine: the line of tables where you do daily monitoring of sales in the five continents, in charge of all the stores detailed report each day. Information is key to meeting the company's mantra: what sells is what you like, then you have to do what you like to be sold ... but without repeating the above. This kind of syllogism governed by the rule of the third world's richest man according to Forbes and Bloomberg, Amancio Ortega, the creator of the world's largest chain of fashion from a workshop gowns born 50 years ago. Its formula combines model accurate and fast, flawless logistics and overall taste. The same jacket in Toledo and in Shanghai.
Designers and trade in 30 countries work together to cater to the taste of the client
In one corner, the four workers are clear printing. They play different tissues, silk, viscose, cotton, some more versatile than others and have a look at the half dozen pages with pencil sketches. Sketches of jackets, pants, blouses ... workmanship and fabrics must marry in harmony. That also contributes Tere, the mannequin, who walks with the prototype of a set of silk-sewn one before giving approval. The question now is whether the best combined with trousers or tunic jacket, but also see the fall of the garment. The pattern makers, Maria Jose and Socorro, always think in comfort, in a clip here or there. "We believe all. We are clients of our own business. It is important that you like the article, but not always give you the you "says Loreto, designer. No facilitates their surnames. This is teamwork without egos, the hallmark of a house wielding discretion and humility. "We look for consensus," adds Mary, the mall, which is aware of the sales-to-date or accumulated, of any model and store. If no agreement is reached, decides who runs the numbers.
To succeed with what customer like, especially client-creation of the experience: sales, public demands stores reporting, failures when available. But it must go hand in hand of intuition to achieve something new, sometimes like. We must make a commitment to the colors - the range of those who succeed in store or innovate? - Choose between plain or printed - big, small, geometric? -, Choose the makings. The goal is to follow the trend, that line often hazy and uncertain duration that separates what is fashion of what is not. Speakers taste of self and others, the dominant tones at a televised gala, which leads people down the street and, of course, the Internet. "The world is in a computer. You make a salad with everything and see common ground, "said Loreto. This confluence is a kind of eureka: going around the trend.
"Fast fashion is a reaction to what happens in the street, to the Oscars, the last article in Vogue", explains Professor José Luis Nueno, author of a study on the Zara model for Harvard University - Inditex is a case study in many business schools. For him, at the base of the salad are "parades of the great houses of fashion, television and street costumes". The inspiration is part of copy? "No copy is called is called fashion orientation and everybody does," says the professor of IESE Business School.
External Workshops like this Arteixo must meet a code of ethics. Sometimes they circumvent, as recently discovered in a fire in Bangladesh. / CATERINA BARJAU
Loreto and Mary follow the trend, but also contribute to it. For customers, the fashion is largely what is new in the stores. In his 6009 in 86 countries-, Inditex offers year 27,000 18,000 designs of Zara. They reproduce in a huge number of items: the world has 960 million pieces of Galaxy Ortega and more than 7,000 million people, according to last year's data. "When something like, triumphant everywhere", says Mary. If you do not like, there is flexibility to mitigate the error. Production can be modulated and the dye to fine tune the color. Advantages of vertical production system, which controls all the steps.
"The customer wants today what you saw yesterday. He moves go to last at a good price. There is very little risk in the acquisition, because the payout is not very high, "Nueno analyzes. E Inditex puts it in three weeks in the window by a complex mechanism. Speed is also key to the buyer: if the garment like the better buy it on the fly, because it is repeated until saturation. Novelty-different models come twice a week, is the best hook to visit some shops often lovingly cared for and tested in advance in Arteixo. Here nothing is left to chance, not even background music establishments. Since the windows are in evidence this autumn, with black and gold.
The huge army of the needle tune your weapons. The tissue is analyzed in the laboratory and found to comply with the rules. From design patterns. In-Inditex has 10 factories in the industrial estates-are cut fast fashion pieces, the hallmark of the company. Collar, front, back, sleeves ... A giant puzzle labeling leaves for a tangle of clothing companies nearby. The eight marks Galaxy Inditex-Pull & Bear, Massimo Dutti, Bershka, Stradivarius, Oysho, Uterque, Zara Home and own Zara, including Kiddy's Class and Lefties-operate autonomously and have a network of 1,490 shops in 60 countries. They exhibit the stitches.
The current garments are made in "proximity", that means Inditex Spain, especially Galicia, Portugal, Morocco and Turkey. Concentrated around 51% of production, according to the company. The rest is constructed in more distant countries, especially in Asia, where labor is cheaper, such as China, Cambodia, India and Bangladesh. The deadlines are greater.
Proximity is today the same Arteixo, the council of 30,700 inhabitants near Corunna cradle of textile empire. There, between the road and a garden where the chickens roam, Matilde Matas, former employee of Inditex, and Juan Campos, machinery exvendedor have created one hundred workshops Galician working for the group. This morning have to do plaid shirt Pull & Bear, 3,000 a day in a job chain. Taylorism in its purest, dozens of women busily about machines: one gives the outer stitching, another sewing cuffs, the other buttons, the other eyelets. "It's a way to have productivity," says Campos. Although the music ease, making "is hard work." No candidates missing or in Spain, or in countries where fashion is slow, like t-shirts and much of the basic clothing wardrobe.
The world has 960 million pieces of Inditex and more than 7,000 million
Near or far, all working for Inditex workshops are to enforce a code of conduct obligation to offer a fair and dignified working conditions and wages correct. But sometimes give trouble. The last, a fire at a factory in Bangladesh that killed seven people in January. In Arteixo emphasize that a local supplier had subcontracted the workshop without the required permission of Inditex. They have broken with both. "We have compensated financially injured, families of the deceased and the workers who lost their jobs," says Felix Poza, director of corporate social responsibility (CSR).
Any scandal can be as comprehensive as fashion and very harmful. The company has strengthened policy responsibility since 2007. It has signed global agreements with unions for example, and increased surprise inspections. When violations are detected, it provides a deadline for correcting and evaluated later. Control is the point that Spanish unions criticize, generally satisfied with the conditions in the factories themselves and less with the stores, over 1,900 in Spain, especially for part-time employment that allows flexibility company. "When a complaint react well, but prevention fails," says Paula Alves, UGT delegate. "The company fails to prevent the subcontractors fail the ethical code," adds Carmen Exposito Federation CCOO Textile Industry. More radical shows Inter Galician Confederation (IGC). "The code of conduct is a whitewash without practical purposes," says its director of textile, Dores Martinez.
"Companies are moving with complaints, not prevention, but at least the Inditex is moving" concedes activist Albert Sales. Work on the Clean Clothes Campaign in 14 countries-in Spain through NGOs that are Setem-job insecurity denouncing "the global garment industry," marked "by the difficult planning and the need to comply deadlines. " "Inditex is the world's leader. Force others to position themselves on CSR and have some commitments, but time proves to be ineffective, "he says. The problem is "structural", a result of a production model that involves "very strong pressures on producers." "In quick fashion, business risks are transferred to workers and social risks become for them" ditch Sales. "We've gone from reactive to proactive," defend the Inditex CSR team. "We are demanding, but we are not squeezing. We believe the obligation to be decent ", add a step higher. "Human rights and labor are inseparable".
Several workers choose the photos of models to be included in the sale page online. / CATERINA BARJAU
The external factories are vital, but also the technology-the first computer was purchased in 1976 - and logistics. The news arrives by land, air or sea, and always ends on a truck bound for the huge logistics platforms. All from Zara passes the Arteixo to finish in the 1,925 zaras the world.
Higher profile models, like jackets, make factory preset ratio. American is now flooded this summer fuchsia-send strong colors. Ironed one by one chain, computerized machines: some operatives, sleeves, others strikers. Body sounds sad, Tow, but no one complains. A dozen employees leave lists 4,000 jackets per day. And some, like Isabel Naya step chosen purchase. "Before I called a friend who works in a store to let me know when he arrived, but with the Internet and do not need," he says smiling.
The online sale is the new jewel in the crown of the empire Ortega, but the company refuses to give data. Departed with some delay, as of 2010, and already implemented in 23 countries, including China. Amen to provide great information supplementing the stores - "can measure up to the doubt", they say, is another sales channel and feeds back to the classic. The customer usually collect the order on site and you can always buy something else.
For anyone who is shopping for the screen, it pampers the electronic storefront. On the web are first presented with models posing, "thinking of nothing", the mannequin Amanda Moreno in the studio. Then combinations are enhanced by forming the catalog. The public can submit suggestions. Here not given stitch without thread. By take up reused half dozen times cartons before recycling. The electric bill is attenuated with solar panels and the windmill headquarters. Environmental sustainability began with another criterion very DNA of the house savings.
The fast fashion clothing chain are made in Spain, Portugal, Morocco and Turkey
Fuchsia Jackets move on rails to the logistics platform. Governing the system computers, designed from the transport of luggage, and postal sorting barcodes. So are organized each Zara shipments twice a week. "Spend a couple of days from a shop in Japan that makes us the order until it receives" specific Inditex spokesman Jesus Echevarria.
That Japanese trade will be like any other chain: minimalist and glamorous, relaxed atmosphere. The store, word spoken with devotion in Arteixo, is the main window of a firm spends on advertising only. Substantial savings. "Each customer must have its own image of Zara, be your judge without the influence of ads," argues Echevarria. And if the client is a celebrity who wears the brand-detail-often transcend what better promotion?
Homogeneous, but there zaras in unique locations, and increasingly, luxury sites, including Fifth Avenue. Between March 2011 and June 2012, Inditex has allocated 960 million euros to buy three local shops iconic flag-position the brand-in as many miles Golden New York, Milan and London. But say they do not turn to real estate. "It is not our business. Generally rent because the cost and risk are children. " But neither would miss investment opportunities like that, and had enough cash. This is not wasted anything.
The treasury is not lacking. Inditex has opened the year with 4.097 million available. Year after year, breaks records. In the last year (February 2012 to 31 Jan.) sales have climbed by 16% to 15.946 million euros, two thirds are Zara. Equivalent to more than 1.5% of the Spanish GDP. Net profit 2,361 million represented a 22% increase. Spanish company is more market value.
In the factory are ironed thousands of jackets. Sounds the song 'Body sad', but no one complains
The business was born from the intuition of Ortega grows outside holes of the crisis this year plans to open at least 440 stores, especially in Asia - "a key to the expansion," defined-, America and other European countries such as Russia . In Spain no. Now do not touch: here the turnover fell last year by 5%, the biggest drop in its history. The company justifies the "slight" decline in sales and the VAT increase absorption. Although provided "12% of the clothes they buy," according to Professor Nueno, falling "dramatically" citizen spending is felt. There enrolls some remodeling expert on the seal zaras Lefties. "There are anti-crisis strategy. The lefties were born 20 years ago ", defended in Inditex. Only available in Spain and Portugal, the countries where prices are lower-Zara, and increased their initial role: to output the remaining stock, the holy grail of textile. The lefties, about 80, have their own collection and compete in the low end. The need has become to make a virtue, as the recycling of hangers in electronic alarms.
With the formula of offering the customer what they want to buy and do it quickly, the company has grown into an emporium. Inditex has 120,000 employees, around 80% in Spain 40 000 women. And that 38 years after opening on a street slip Coruña Juan Florez its first Zara store, which looks like new and has two generations of clients. Difficult gowns evoking a past when this has become a nearly one billion items per year among women's clothing, child, man, teen, home, footwear, accessories, fragrances. A brand also for each type of consumer. "Inditex moves like a Roman legion in which the military is engaged with each other and walk at the same pace. It centers populated cities competing brands seeking possession of median price consumers but also offers premium products, "analyzes Josep Francesc Valls, a professor of marketing management at ESADE Business School. "It is not the same in all countries. In some luxury ", adds the expert, who believes" a pioneer of low cost "to the employer in a town of Leon who began working as a child.
Amancio Ortega plays a very inspiring and always available for consultation "
Amancio Ortega, 77, who has never given an interview, is being seen by Arteixo, secured in this Headquarters where ties are a rarity. It is the only trace of a man with a reputation for humble and father of a vertical production model that controls all stages of the product. In 2011, the creator of Inditex, owner of 59.6% of capital which has reported 813 million euros for the last financial year, took a step back. Appointed President Paul Island, the captain who has shifted to Asia and spends almost half the travel time in the company plane. "Ortega plays a very inspiring and always available for consultation," they say. His youngest daughter, Marta, maternity leave, Zara commercial works. It builds, but ownership and management are demarcated.
What is not known is the future boundaries. "We have a huge tour. We have a huge potential for growth. Our presence is global, but in 90% of markets are beginning "they say in the business. "Inditex has an excellent model and can still grow a lot," says Professor Nueno. He adds: "I'd have something terrible happen to fail, an Armageddon". But if the apocalypse comes, maybe Zara view.
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